myscx

How hard is this to install?

Slalom4me

Not very..

Try a search using 'bias' and archived topics

There were lots of posts when I just did this and
here is one of the first threads that came up - seems
to be tailor made for your question:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=531144

Bluevette85

The tough part is figuring out a way to compress the bias spring to get the c-clip into place. You'll need a vise or a adjustable clamp.

jackdaroofer

:cheers: Harder than they make it sound :smash:

You don't have to remove the MC, just the large nut on front of MC

The valve assembly comes out in one piece...have a helper step slowly on the brake pedal, this will help to free it. I used a file with a sharp pointe end, bent the end into a hook and grabbed it by the "slot" you will see

That was the easy part!

The "C" ring is on the backside and "C" ring pliers are required

Getting the old spring out is fairly straight forward once you remove the "C" ring

Getting it back in and securing the "C" ring is another story. I made a fixture that would allow me to compress the spring, with the "C" ring attached to the fixture so that as I put pressure on it with a C clamp, the spring and the "C" ring were compressed into the cylinder simultaneously. The when the "C" ring was at the end od the cylinder, I used the "pliers to pull it together while I continued to turn the C Clamp until everything moved into the cylinder and I could release the "pliers"

Now that I have done it, it is a piece of cake :D Sort of like changing the third brake light bulbs in a vert :D

If I can me of further asistance, let me know

:seeya

:steering:

93Quasar

I guess a more general question: What does the spring do for you?

I am going to upgrade my 93 front brakes to GS J55. Will I need to install this spring?

bill mcdonald

It adds a little more bias towards the rear brakes.

ShawnZR-1

I just did this install this weekend! It took me and a friend to get the spring into the piston!!! That was a royal PITA! Unfortunately, I haven't had a chance to drive it yet (way too busy over the weekend).

I used a clamp, a 7 or 8 mm (1/4 inch drive) socket (to compress the spring) and 4 hands! Oh, get a good snap ring plier, it makes the job possible! :yesnod:

93Quasar

Let me know what you think of it. I guess what I should have asked is what are the consequences of going to J55 or C5 brakes and not doing this change?

bill mcdonald

I dont think it is much of a big deal. I had the 12" rotors and calipers on my car, I put the 13" rotors and GS calipers with race/street pads on it. stops good now.

I want to install my spring as well, but I hear it is a PITA, and I think I just want to drive it for now

ShawnZR-1

I'll let you know, but I also replaced the brake lines with stainless steel braided at the same time. I won't be able to provide a completely objective synopsis of the results. I'm expecting some shorter stopping distances and using the rears a bit more (20% more?), I should accomplish that! :cheers:

TheCorvetteKid

I actually bought one of these brake bias springs about 2 years ago, but never installed it. And now that I'm hearing the kind of difficulty some of you have experienced, I may not.

But did you all have to bleed your brakes after you installed this spring? I'd probably reconsider going through the agony of trying to install it knowing that at least I don't have to bleed my brakes after I'm done.

Thanks.

ShawnZR-1

Oh, you definately have to bleed the system when you are done! :yesnod: I won't lie to you there! :crazy:

jackdaroofer

:cheers: Installing the spring is definitely worth the effort...IMHO

It does work! Brings the rear brakes into play, shortens stoping distance.

If you live near me, or you want to send me the valve assy and the spring, I will install it for you for the cost of shipping only. Like I said, I fabricated a 'fixture" that makes it fairly easy to compress the spring and install the C ring

Happy to do it

e mail me

Jack

PS You will need to bleed the MC and maybe the brakes too

:seeya

jackdaroofer

Bleeding the brakes isn't all that difficult, you can do it by yourself and without speed bleeders. Gravity bleeding works great, just takes a little longer.

You really should change the brake fluid every two to three years, more often if brakes get hard use

:seeya

:steering:

NHVett

msscx Hey, could you email me, I grew up in Five Islands and drive my red 85 down there several times a year.

jackdaroofer

:cheers:

When are we gonna meet up again?

I'll be in ogganaguit (spelling) Maine in late July

Jack

Zora

:iagree:

black bart

This is a bargin mod how many things can you do to your car that will improve the performance for less than $ 15.00 I installed mine with a pair of snap ring pliers and a small screwdriver and yes it is kinda hard to get it in but not impossible.

87SAM

My memory isn’t serving me very well right now. What brand/manufacture of spring did you use? It seems one particular brand had a very good endorsement here on the forum…

Duh!!! Maybe DRM would be a clue :crazy: :crazy: :crazy:


[Modified by 87SAM, 10:38 PM 6/2/2003]

ShawnZR-1

Well, after driving the beast for a couple of days, I can give some feedback on the upgrade:

DO IT! There's no doubt it shortens the stopping distance dramatically! Hell, for the first time ever, I have dust on the rear wheels (now, is that really a good thing?) :lol: It proves the rear brakes are coming into play now!

Modulation is much better. I can threshold brake right up until ABS kicks in much better now. It used to come on suddenly when one of the front wheels locked up quick, now it brakes harder longer without ABS. Does this make sense? It's kinda hard to describe. Even when ABS kicks in, it's a quick stop.